Probably the main reason to have an upper at all is to hold the
midsole and outsole to the bottom of the foot. This aspect of
the upper is most obvious when one studies old shoes from sports
like running and basketball. The upper was a leather, canvas or
nylon enclosure that could be tied so as to hold the protective
outsole on the foot. Not much attention was paid to how well the
shoe fit, basically because no one really needed to. Until athletes
started to push the limits of their footwear, did designers and
scientists start to wonder how they could be improved. This focus
brought about changes that focused on improving fit in the upper
as well as enhancing the flexibility, stability and support functions.
Interestingly enough, some shoes are returning to their roots in
the sense that they are being minimized to function as just a
way to hold an outsole to the foot. In some ultra-light racing
shoes the uppers are primarily lycra socks attached to foam midsole/outsole
combinations. The idea here is to provide a design that minimizes
weight but will allow some cushioning during a race.
Figure 2 - Study uppers from different shoes.
Fit - Designers must pay attention to how a shoe fits on the foot.
The overall quality of the fit is based on the last that the shoe
is built around. Lasts are basically models of the foot. The better
the model of the foot, the better the last. Sport researchers
help to build better lasts by taking pictures of thousands of
feet and analyzing them (see the section on video analysis). Another
of the sub-systems that affects the fit of a shoe is the lacing
system. Lacing systems can vary from the "traditional" shoestring
to Velcro, even to no lace systems that allow one to slip the
shoe on like a slipper.
Another part of the upper that is involved in fit is the heel
counter. This piece helps to hold the shoe firmly in place around
the heel region. The heel and ankle region are important to think
about when designing an upper. A heel counter that does not conform
to the heel will allow the heel to move around too much and can
effect stability leading to injury.
Stability - The upper, along with the midsole, are the most important contributors
to the ability of a shoe to protect against potentially injurious
motions of the foot and ankle. In basketball, for example, a "high
top" or "three quarter" height upper may provide more support
to the ankle and help prevent players from spraining an ankle.
Stability and motion control are key areas for study using video
analysis techniques that look at pronation and supination.
Durability - The ability of the upper to contribute to stability, maintain
its shape, provide optimal flexibility, and protect the foot from
abrasions and injuries is directly related to the materials used
to construct it. In selecting materials the designer must take
into account the specific sport the shoe is being designed for.
For example, a shoe designed for rock climbing will have distinctly
different durability needs than a shoe designed for basketball.
In fact, the overall design of the upper may vary by position
in a specific sport--a pitcher in baseball needs a design that
provides durability in the toe area while a shoe used in other
positions may not. Other factors that the designer must also take
into consideration include such things as diverse as the overall
weight of the shoe, the aesthetics (how it looks) and the "price
point" (how much the shoe will cost) as this will influence the
types of materials that can be used.
These last two points, aesthetics and price point, bring up an
interesting aspect of sport research and its application to shoe
design and even, in a broader sense, sports in general. This is,
of course, the pull between research and marketing. It is an interesting
exercise, and worthwhile from an informed consumer viewpoint,
to have students consider how much of a shoe's appeal (usually
directly related to cost) is due to the "look" of the shoe vs.
the functionality. There is no doubt that the application of sport
research has improved the quality and functionality of sports
equipment and the performance of athletes. However, where this
improvement ends and the marketing begins is a question worth
considering.
Flexibility - In some sports a very stiff shoe is more advantageous while
in others more flexible shoes are needed. For example, a place-kicker
in American football might need a shoe that is very stiff in the
forefoot region, while a runner would need a shoe that flexes
along the natural flex lines in the foot. In general, when considering
flexibility the designer and scientist focus on these natural
flex lines in the foot, the area in the forefoot between the ball
of the foot and the toes where the foot flexes while running.
When considering flexibility there is usually a trade-off between
overall durability and stability.